26.9.10

MONTREAL FashionWeek.

[tamara]

I'll be attending Montreal Fashion Week starting tomorrow, reporting for the Vancouer Sun on some of the biggest names in the Canadian fashion industry and their SS'11 collections. Thirteen shows in four nights, including David Dixon, Dimitri Chris, Coccolily, LAVOS, Collection Iris Setlakwe, Soia and Kyo, Ezra Constantine and Barila!! This is my first fashion week and I couldn't be happier right now. I'll also be tweeting live from each show so make sure you're following @tamara_young. For those of you who haven't started thinking about it yet, remember that Vancouver Fashion Week starts on November 3rd.

22.9.10

FASHION WEEK SS'11. parttwo

[natalie]


This is my first review of fashion week, and surprisingly, I enjoyed it! I thought this was more of Tamara's thing but it turns out that I like getting the first look of what's next in trends - and this is definitely the way to find out! I'm really looking forward to the bigger label shows, which should be appearing shortly. It's weird.. looking at all the runway shows, I had to adjust how I see designers and their lines. There is an just an incredible amount of work put into every single look and to have that much creative energy..it's just inspiring. Compared to looking at a street style photo, which is my usual forte, looking at runway fashion shots really made me realize that there is this other half of fashion. A serious, business side. Now that I've really spent some time with these photos I can also see how fashion truly is an art. On to the review!


BURBERRY PRORSUM




I like the contrasting effect of the animal prints in this show - very interesting! Burberry this season chose to add hits of neon, something we've already noticed on other blogs, and we're loving it! The neon accessories really complimented the usual Burberry beiges. I thought it was a bit strange that they chose to include several 'hard core' or edgy pieces though - the studded jackets and leather pants for example. I feel like we finished with this last summer, but hey, maybe they're coming back? Erm.. In comparison to previous Burberry shows this one didn't quite live up to its name. The shiny silver pants were great, but again, I was hoping for something a little bit more innovative for the rest of the show.


ACNE




I like this label a lot because I see it so often on the Swedish blogs we follow. Unfortunately, however, this line wasn't that spectacular. What is with the leather and studs? This is the second show I've seen, and both had them! The draping and use of sheer fabrics was great, and that one look with the sheer weaving in and out of the skirt? So sweet! The shoes were amazing - they almost looked like those Chinese wooden shoes in Memoirs of a Geisha! Way bigger though.. Acne stuck to the minimalist trend that has been gripping the fashion industry - every single look was simplistic.


ALEXANDER WANG




Although I've seen previous collections by Alexander Wang that were better, I really did enjoy his use of "colour" (if you can call it that) this time around. All the clothes flowed really elegantly, and the white and the muted browns were especially pretty. The latter shade was completely Seventies - or that's the last time I've seen that hue. Out of the two lines I've looked at so far, this one seemed the most appropriate for Spring 2011. This collection was incredibly well put together, each look melted effortlessly into the next. Definitely didn't get the apparent 'construction' theme though.. :P


MARC JACOBS




I have to say, I'm very impressed with Marc Jacobs and this collection. Everything was bursting with colour and life...amazing. I was just head over heels for that wide brim straw hat too, let me tell you. I noticed right away that Marc was inspired by the Seventies, as many other shows this season, and since it's my first review of fashion week I'm going to say it.. I TOLD YOU SO. Please search back to a post in November when I talked about how the Seventies would be making a big comeback! Okay, rant over. ANYWAY. What was with the random bathing suit?!? (See, I could keep ranting..) I think for this season the line was a bit to maximalist.. but that's typical Marc - he sees designers going one way, and he goes the complete opposite.


RODARTE




You could tell in this collection that there was a general theme - whether it was gladiators playing in the trees or warrior princesses hiding in tall grass though..I'm not sure which. No, but seriously. All of the hues were very earthy, and the shoes were even made of wood! The combination of textures and prints was insane. Definitely some classic Rodarte styling going on here, but the designers' usual impulse to go all out seemed to have been contained this season. I have to say, I fell in love with the hair styling on these models - the bangs were neatly knotted and just gorgeous. I will have to try that!


SASS & BIDE




I absolutely adored this line. The use of copper was fresh and unexpected, and the choker neck pieces were divine. The whole collection was feminine, supplemented by bold quasi-feminist statements like that massive metal belt. The pastel coral on a couple of the looks was light and, much like the rest of the line, completely wearable. One word to describe this show? Beautiful..

| style.com

11.9.10

NewYorkFashionWeek. S/S '11. part one

[tamara]

Part one of Ad Idem's seasonal fashion week coverage is finally done! To excuse the delay, I can just say that I've been a little bit caught up with school and readings and such things! Natalie will be working on part two I hope, so stay tuned for that. In other news.. I may or may not have VERY exciting news to share soon..


PHILLIP LIM 3.1




Carrying on with the minimalist rage that has recently hit the runway, Lim produced a line for the Spring season that was both innovative as well as refined. In particular, I was a fan of the way in which the designer merged the sheer fabric and camel leather trend of last season with this Autumn's focus on the Seventies. Simple wide-legged trousers were complimented with layered tops of different materials, and Lim craftily maneuvered around the stipulated minimalism of this season by creating pieces that were so detailed up close, that they appeared plain from afar. The medium gray trench coat, which was "edged in black and covered in little bobbing threads", is a good example of this. More importantly though, I just can't get enough of that mint-green/slightly grayish over-sized suit vest!


RALPH LAUREN




Well.. I didn't know whether or not I was actually going to write about this collection when I saw the first fifteen looks or so. I feel like we've already done the fringe thing - almost to the point of exhaustion I might add, but the western look did make a slight comeback earlier this year so I guess I can excuse it. No, just kidding - I'm not actually that put off. In fact, I'm taking an American history course this semester, and I found that many of the later pieces in Ralph Lauren alluded to early American themes... Naturally the fringe slacks and enormous rusted belt buckles on some of the models hinted at this - but there was also a subtler 'early American woman' presence in the looks en masse. One was constantly reminded of helpless dames in white undergarments, daughters of the South and rich 18th century American heiresses.. Please note that the majority of these looks were completely white: a trend that has been promoted in the past two seasons, in addition to this one.


MICHAEL KORS




I'm always a big supporter of Michael Kors. I'll say that first. Once again he was able to effortlessly combine the casual and chic in a way that few others can. What with the tissue-cashmere maxi-dresses, flowy wide-legged trousers and slouchy thin knit sweaters it was hard not to fall in love with this collection almost immediately. Oh, and if you look closely, you can spot the waist line coming way down. YES! Unfortunately, I also found that the whole tone of the show was thrown off slightly as sporadic splashes of blinding colour seemed to appear on the catwalk. Moreover, it appears that for the last few looks of the line, Kors tossed out several vibrant and overstated beach dresses. Umm..sure?


NICOLE MILLER





Have you ever seen something that is so beyond beautiful that you can barely conceive of it? Staring at it with your mouth open like an idiot? That was me when I saw the Nicole Miller SS'11 line. I'm not even joking - mouth was wide open. I think the last time I fell so much in love with a collection was when Valentino premiered their Fall Couture '10 gowns. Anyway! Back to Nicole Miller. Ethereal, floaty, elegant, just magnificent... I'm at a loss for words. I literally loved every single piece. OK! Here's why: the layered sheer skirt piece, the way the clothes hang, the subtle smoky hues that emerge from the pure white, the thin draped scarves and the chunky shoes that seem to contradict, and yet perfect, each and every look.


NICHOLAS K




This collection simply screams 'cool'. Laid-back and slightly edgy, the whole show had an "I really don't give a f*ck" tone. Having said that, there were many current trends contained within that made it appropriate for NYFW. Cropped tops, over-sized hoods, elegant draping, muted hues and wrap boots so beautiful that I want to cry. I likee it!

| photos from style.com