Part one of Ad Idem's seasonal fashion week coverage is finally done! To excuse the delay, I can just say that I've been a little bit caught up with school and readings and such things! Natalie will be working on part two I hope, so stay tuned for that. In other news.. I may or may not have VERY exciting news to share soon..
PHILLIP LIM 3.1
Carrying on with the minimalist rage that has recently hit the runway, Lim produced a line for the Spring season that was both innovative as well as refined. In particular, I was a fan of the way in which the designer merged the sheer fabric and camel leather trend of last season with this Autumn's focus on the Seventies. Simple wide-legged trousers were complimented with layered tops of different materials, and Lim craftily maneuvered around the stipulated minimalism of this season by creating pieces that were so detailed up close, that they appeared plain from afar. The medium gray trench coat, which was "edged in black and covered in little bobbing threads", is a good example of this. More importantly though, I just can't get enough of that mint-green/slightly grayish over-sized suit vest!
Well.. I didn't know whether or not I was actually going to write about this collection when I saw the first fifteen looks or so. I feel like we've already done the fringe thing - almost to the point of exhaustion I might add, but the western look did make a slight comeback earlier this year so I guess I can excuse it. No, just kidding - I'm not actually that put off. In fact, I'm taking an American history course this semester, and I found that many of the later pieces in Ralph Lauren alluded to early American themes... Naturally the fringe slacks and enormous rusted belt buckles on some of the models hinted at this - but there was also a subtler 'early American woman' presence in the looks en masse. One was constantly reminded of helpless dames in white undergarments, daughters of the South and rich 18th century American heiresses.. Please note that the majority of these looks were completely white: a trend that has been promoted in the past two seasons, in addition to this one.
I'm always a big supporter of Michael Kors. I'll say that first. Once again he was able to effortlessly combine the casual and chic in a way that few others can. What with the tissue-cashmere maxi-dresses, flowy wide-legged trousers and slouchy thin knit sweaters it was hard not to fall in love with this collection almost immediately. Oh, and if you look closely, you can spot the waist line coming way down. YES! Unfortunately, I also found that the whole tone of the show was thrown off slightly as sporadic splashes of blinding colour seemed to appear on the catwalk. Moreover, it appears that for the last few looks of the line, Kors tossed out several vibrant and overstated beach dresses. Umm..sure?
Have you ever seen something that is so beyond beautiful that you can barely conceive of it? Staring at it with your mouth open like an idiot? That was me when I saw the Nicole Miller SS'11 line. I'm not even joking - mouth was wide open. I think the last time I fell so much in love with a collection was when Valentino premiered their Fall Couture '10 gowns. Anyway! Back to Nicole Miller. Ethereal, floaty, elegant, just magnificent... I'm at a loss for words. I literally loved every single piece. OK! Here's why: the layered sheer skirt piece, the way the clothes hang, the subtle smoky hues that emerge from the pure white, the thin draped scarves and the chunky shoes that seem to contradict, and yet perfect, each and every look.
This collection simply screams 'cool'. Laid-back and slightly edgy, the whole show had an "I really don't give a f*ck" tone. Having said that, there were many current trends contained within that made it appropriate for NYFW. Cropped tops, over-sized hoods, elegant draping, muted hues and wrap boots so beautiful that I want to cry. I likee it!
| photos from style.com