When I started this Couture Week coverage a few hours ago, I must say, I wasn't incredibly enthusiastic. This is due, perhaps, to the fact that I have just recovered from a nasty bout of what I can only assume was the flu. Having said that, fashion is one thing that often makes me do things I wouldn't usually do. Things like e-mail the editor in chief of FASHION Magazine, harass journalists at big city newspapers on a weekly basis for months, and even question the career path I laid out for myself at the age of eight. Therefore, it may not surprise you that I've stayed awake until nearly 1am now (when I should be recovering) looking at couture runway shots. Even with the encouragement that fashion provides, however, I was fairly unimpressed with the looks I saw. I've said it before, but I'll say it again: I'm not a huge artsy person. I confess this fact freely. Whereas one of my lovely friends, who at this time shall go unnamed, can see endless beauty in a Galliano collection; I often only see a hell of a lot of taffeta. Of course I would have still provided critique out of a love for the designers, but it may have been produced without much pleasure on my part. That was...until I saw Givenchy. Allons-y!
Oh dear.. To start things off with a bang, I thought I would expose Chanel. Like ripping off a band-aid..sort of. Although I have always admired Karl Lagerfeld's vision, I feel as if he's almost too caught up in himself these days to produce anything that is truly magnificent. In this case, my impression is similar to my opinion of his FW'10 RTW collection: he makes bold statements (his self-expressed vision through this line) in every shape and texture, but there was not a ton of beauty. Before you attack me - let me at least say that I'm putting this delicately for you. A friend had fewer words when asked about this collection (a gift I think, for I frequently have too many), but was eager to share her sounds of disgust. "Tam..there's a..a..kdfjdlfjd..brown lace...*long pause*..bubble...ewww..dress." Thanks love, that really helped.
You wanted bold, people? THIS. Every dress in this collection screams woman, and yet, powerful woman. I don't think we're necessarily looking for frumpy suits anymore. I think we're looking for effortless beauty, class, and yes, power. I don't know what else to say about this.. I adore everything though.
I love decadence, I do. I was one of those people who walked into all the grand rooms in le Louvre and desperately wanted to move in. If there were a way to go back four hundred years and marry some wealthy king of France, I would have done it already. Hence, when I saw Givenchy's latest collection..my heart melted a little. It was one of those moments where I just sighed in complete happiness. This may be confusing to some - but look at the detailing on those dresses!! AKDFJD@!!!Kjd&@! (That's not even a curse word, that's just me being expressive) I wish everyone would wear such things, every single day of their lives. Just..breathtaking. It's not to everyone's taste, but these ones certainly were to mine.
For those who wanted trend happenings with the runway shoots - I will try to help you out with that. As much as I can of course, this being Couture Week. ;)
We're noticing a big change in the hem length. Starting in FW '10, and even dating back to a couple previous seasons, the hem is definitely dropping. You're going to start seeing maxi-skirts, along with the usual maxi dresses, in addition to skirts that come to mid-calf and just below the knee. This is a more conservative, 50s inspired look and is quite popular with designers right now. There's also a big change in colour. As I mentioned, I believe in November, the big colours for Fall and Winter '10 are quite strong. Deep reds, navy blues, and olive greens included. Smaller bags people. Get used to them. Oh, and smaller heels. We've said it before - but it's even more obvious with the release of these collections. In other shows, ones that I have yet to cover, you'll be seeing deep v-neck necks, more of the sheer fabric from spring, combined with a heavier material (rather than lace), and a lot of layering. Not heavy layering like two winters ago with all the scarves and such things, but lighter materials paired with heavier materials. For example: a semi sheer long sleeved shirt under a thicker short sleeved shirt. (Gradually though, we aren't back in the Nineties yet).
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I recently had an epiphany about Galliano. I suppose 'recently' is a relative term, given that it was a few months ago.. Nevertheless, my opinion has been altered - and positively, I might add. No longer am I disgusted with the frivolity and excess that Galliano continues to deliver in each of his shows, but instead, find myself in awe of the beauty. No, no. I have not turned into a maximalist when it comes to my own styling. However, I do find that I have learned to appreciate Dior for its seemingly arrogant and presumptuous demonstrations of luxury. His couture is art. Plain and simple. And we cannot fault art for being what it is.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
Last time around, I definitely was not Gaultier's biggest fan. This time around, my opinion of his couture line has improved..slightly at least. I enjoyed the head pieces in particular, especially the ones that were not constructed of synthetic hair. Although it might take some coaxing, I myself would not be adverse to wearing one.. at an event or something though, not class! The trench coat is Gaultier's "signature piece" in this line, and it made me quite happy for I recently purchased a trench myself. Mine too has incredibly loud shoulders, and is PERFECT for the upcoming fall season.