10.3.10

FASHION WEEK[s]. F/W 10 . partfive

[tamara]


VALENTINO




I just love these new designers for Valentino! Minimalist, but elegant and detailed at the same time - the theme of this season's fashion week in essence. Lovely light fabrics, high collars, and an interesting shoe. This collection was simply beautiful! You can see the more sheer, lighter fabrics in many of the SS collections from last season. Intriguing that the Valentino fashion house is continuing on with this look when many, save Balenciaga, are deepening their colour schemes and exploring thicker fabrics. Having said that, with their couture line in mind, it is clear that these designers understand the importance of combining the glory of Valentino (both name and tradition) with new and more youthful touches!


CHLOE




SEVENTIES!!! Love, LOVE all the different beiges + hues of tan. The bucket bag we've known to be back for a while now, but what really interested me..and you can see it pictured here..WAS THE MOONBOOT!!! Okay, sorry, but this has been an obsession of mine for about..oh around..four years now. The blue fur is interesting.. I read an article today (from the New York Times) on fur in the fashion industry and how it has come back with a vengeance, this season in particular. I was happy to read that most of the big name fashion houses get their fur from Saga-Furs, a Denmark based company. Saga-Furs employs an incredibly strict set of guidelines on who they get furs from to ensure that there are no violations of animal cruelty laws. Yes, it is still terrible, but this is at least a small comfort. The tans/beiges are perfect for both this S/S season and F/W - especialy as the tans are a tad darker than those seen, for example, on the A.F. Vandevorst line of SS'10. Also take note of the sweat pant in the third photo. I think we'll be seeing a lot more of this style in future months!


ALEXANDER MCQUEEN




"He wanted to get back to the handcraft he loved, and the things that are being lost in the making of fashion. He was looking at the art of the Dark Ages, but finding light and beauty in it." - Sarah Burton

Oh McQueen... :( We miss you so. You and your beautiful mind. These designs only hint at what could have been. I think they were something like 80% completed when he died.


LOUIS VUITTON




Woah. As Sarah Mower so eloquently put it, "This was one fashion show heterosexual men are going to understand." Also - HELLO 50s, massive clothes, and chesty models such as Adriana Lima and Alessandra Ambrosio of Victoria Secret. RANDOM. I would never expect to see either of those two women on a Louis Vuitton runway. Is it bad that I think it looked a little bit sloppy? Maybe I have just become so used to skeletal, flat chested models that I was surprised with Marc Jacobs this season. But hey! This is what we should be seeing, real women! (Even though I very much doubt Jessica Stam can be compared to a 'real woman' by any standard.) Well, having said that, I barely know what to think about the clothes. We can see the long hemline again, typical Marc for this season, and again, a flashback to older times. Smaller purses were also a big thing, as well as small heels. I still can't seem to get my head around either of these trends, but perhaps things will change as time goes on..

CHANEL




Umm.. Lagerfeld? Is it time we all started dressing up as sasquatches? I think anyone would be terrified to criticize Karl, who is basically the god of fashion - but I would never buy those fur pants!! Something tells me they were more for show than anything else, and I did really like the middle section of this line, especially the white pieces. The hair on these models was also fantastic! I haven't displayed any of the fur boots, but there were a plethora of them! Crazy, knee high, SHAG boots. Humm.. Sure?


THAKOON




I love this! Thakoon is a relatively new designer, but I loved most, if not all of these looks. The styling in particular was excellent. I suddenly feel the hood coming back.. No, not a 'hoodie', but a big elegant hood..hum let's wait a season or two and see what happens. As some of you know Thakoon is a favourite of Anna Wintour, and I can see why. He aced this season. With the charcoals, brown, and his use of fur (not over done! *cough* Lagerfeld *cough*), it was a very complete and beautiful line. One can also see the waist belt (not empire waist) being utilized, as well as black and cream sheer materials.


ELIE SAAB




Yes! Very beautiful dresses. I was especially impressed with the way in which Elie Saab integrated a darker tone into the collection. She didn't go too dark though and it was still very romantic and light somehow. The detailing on some of these pieces is GORGEOUS. If you watched the Oscars this year, dresses by Saab could be seen on Anna Kendrick and Rachel McAdams! Although lace is over.. well..somewhat.. sheer material fused with lacy designs most certainly is not! Also, LOVE the maxi dress. WOW - talk about a statement piece.


HERMES




I liked the use of textured leather, and the fact that, unlike every other show this season it seems, they used a minimal amount of fur! I really love the time piece that one model has, and for some reason I got a very Sherlock-Holmes vibe from this collection. Hermes of course presented their traditional Birkin bag - if you want one..there's about a 5 year wait list, and you'll have to dish out about $6,000-100,000 (depending on the material). I also thought the boots used in this collection were nice, despite the smaller heel, and I would love to see someone on the street wearing that hat! (Top hats were also a thing for Hermès this season) Additionally, the opaque tight has been everywhere, and of course the black, white, and charcoal hues for fall/winter! Of course Hermes included the thigh-high boot. This, for me, is a little bit depressing because I've just realized that I left my own DIY leather thigh-highs at my parents' house, and I won't see them until May.


YVES SAINT LAURENT




I was really going to end my commentary before this (it being my last), but I felt too horrible leaving out Yves Saint Laurent. It would be like having chili without corn bread muffins - haha natalie ;) But in all seriousness, what is going on with this collection? I felt for the first ten looks or so, that I was watching a church procession! Having said that, I love that turquoise dress, with the velvet elbow length gloves - wow. The cuts of this line are really exquisite, and I think thats what makes it stand out because the fabrics aren't that interesting. Or they weren't, save the few I posted. Again, loving the sheer black material - I'm not even sure what to call this? - and the capes. My own nude coloured 'cape', which I found three months ago at a vintage store, I haven't worn yet. All in all though, classic YSL - simplistic, but elegant and innovative at the same time.

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Okay! I think I'm done coverage for this season. Obviously I couldn't do all the lines, but I think I covered the most interesting, as well as my favourite. Needless to say, it has an been exhausting, albeit amazing couple of weeks. While Natalie goes out and buys all these vintage pieces for lookbook and every day use, I have been slaving endlessly over runway shots. It's relatively easy to find me on campus these days - I'm the one leaning over tables to hiss at those who look even slightly fashion-inclined, "DID YOU SEE THAT COLLECTION BY HELMUT LANG?! DIDN'T YOU LOVE THOSE TEXTURED LEATHERS?" When they look up, all startled and frightened, I take this for a 'No' and proceed to glare - "Like how could you not?!!" It's my goal for FW'10 to get Nat more involved - it might save my sanity..

Oh, and I've edited the 'About Us' section to include the fact that ad idem is CANADIAN! With 78 visiting countries, it seems a little silly to assume that everyone knows where Victoria and Montreal are!

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1 comment:

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