So.. I've been talking to a few friends of mine about this show, and one in particular who found it incredibly boring. She argued that it was just typical Chanel with its classic lines and suits. But, she made a terrible mistake and gave up on it before it reached the part where the gowns came out. I have to agree with her about the suits. I don't find anything particularly new and innovative about the tailored pieces. However, having said that - I'm in love with the fabrics and gilded detail Karl Lagerfeld used this season on his dresses. I am just obsessed with how they flow - truly feminine. I also loved the pastels, silver touches, and baby hues. Even if you didn't like anything Chanel couture had to offer this time around, I defy you not to stare utterly enraptured at the closing walk with Abby Lee Kershaw and Lagerfeld's new muse Baptiste Giabiconi.
I really loved this collection, not so much for the actual fabrics or clothes used like in other couture shows - but simply because of the look of the show as a whole. Emulating 19th and early 20th century Russian elite, Thimister's line presents a bold vision that alludes to revolutionary Russia with its dramatized red stains, yet nicely structured and fur trimmed military coats and jackets. Maybe its because I'm a history minor..but Thimister hit a cord with me. Question though.. Hunter boot on a couture line? Hum...
Honestly I'm not quite sure what I think about this show. It was said: "Haughty, crop-switching equestriennes in top hats, veils, and impeccable riding habits; incredible ball gowns swathed and swagged in dozens of yards of duchesse satin: This was one of those occasions when John Galliano pushed a Dior couture show into the realms of sensory overload." I have to agree, sensory overload completely. Then again, I really hate the outrageous use of colour...perhaps that is why I am so hesitant to applaud Dior. Three out of the four photos I chose from this collection show my preference - because they were the least colourful!
I definitely liked how Julien MacDonald employed different fabrics in this year's Givenchy couture, especially the sheer fabrics and detailing such as feathers and ruffles. However unlike most other members of the couture club, he made a mistake in carrying on the semi-gothic look. The makeup was very dark and edgy, and though mesmerizing, I think that it doesn't really reflect the current progression of the fashion industry into a lighter and more romantic place. In fact, when comparing this year's Givenchy couture with 2009's - it almost seems appropriate that they trade places. Last year Julien MacDonald's line showed a great deal of nudes, creams, and pastels. As Karl Lagerfeld said recently, pastels are everything at the moment. Having said that, I liked how many of the Givenchy designs allude to the 70s with the wide leg pant and tailored suit jackets.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER:
Oh dear.. Although this is my first couture season, or at least the first that I'm humbly attempting to review and critique - I must say, either I know absolutely nothing whatsoever about fashion, or this was a big mess up on Gaultier's part. Luckily, I already know the answer - and I'm right this time. Everyone loves Mexico, in fact, Natalie even has an apartment there - but oh god, this show could have been much better, perhaps he should have reserved the theme for a Resort line? Anyway, apparently Gaultier went to Mexico last year and was deeply inspired by the Aztec history. Honestly, I'm all for that! But I don't think a grass dress and a sombrero really screams couture, or the many mysteries of the Aztec people for that matter; and fashion critic for style.com, Sarah Mower, seems to agree with me. Here's hoping that next year Gaultier brings a better game. UP NEXT? Valentino.
YESSSS!!!!! This is by far the best couture line so far in my opinion. Even though powerhouse Valentino Garavani has gone from the label, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli did an amazing job of maintaining the key elements of his design tradition, as well as incorporating a new and invigorated look that will appeal to a new audience. It was nice though because they honoured Garavani's life's work in the middle of the show by walking a brick-red gown down the runway; a dress that heavily alluded to signature Valentino and his days of glory. (PS. for anyone who hasn't seen Valentino: The Last Emperor, I highly recommend it!) LOVE;LOVE;LOVE. Ahhh, the beautiful colours of this collection, yes people, COLOURS (albeit somewhat muted), and elegant wrapping detail literally took my breath. The makeup too was genius and eye catching - the entire thing was just..BEAUTIFUL. and the pastel toned hair was SPOT ON.
So - apart from a few extra lines, that you are more than welcome to look at here, that is it for Paris Fashion Week! Natalie is sans internet right now, but she assures me that once she has it back she will be doing another outfit post.
|all photos courtesy of style.com|